A Suwon local stay in Haenggung-dong on a hosted familiarization trip,
Two days and one night exploring fortress walls and market alleys
Words and photos |
Jigubyeol Sigoljwi, travel and everyday-life blogger and YouTuber
Invited by Suwon IF (Suwon Insight Factory), I joined a hosted familiarization tour in Haenggung-dong, Suwon, South Korea. This two-day, one-night Suwon local stay took us along the walls of Hwaseong Fortress, through Paldalmun Market and Jidong Mural Village, and into Hwaseong Haenggung Palace—a walking introduction to the city’s history and everyday life.
From the fortress walls and neighborhood lanes below Suwon Jeil Church’s Noeulbit Observatory to the illuminated ramparts after dark and the 24 Martial Arts performance outside Sinpungnu Gate, the trip gave me time to slow down and really take in Suwon.
Q. What should I explore around Haenggung-dong?
Beyond Hwaseong Haenggung Palace and Haengnidan-gil, make time for Paldalmun Market, Jidong Mural Village, and the fortress walls. They’re easy ways to add a little history to your day before or after a café stop or meal.
Q. Do I have to walk the entire Hwaseong Fortress circuit?
The full circuit is about 5.7 kilometers, or 3.5 miles. You can choose a shorter section to suit your schedule and energy level and still see impressive gates, walls, and defensive structures.
A Suwon Local Stay: An Easy Addition to a Seoul Trip
Our guide for this trip, Yu Ok-hyeon
“King Jeongjo, I hope you’ve been keeping well.”
Walking the walls of Hwaseong Fortress again, I found myself wanting to greet him like an old acquaintance.
If you’re planning a trip to Seoul, adding a day or an overnight stay in Suwon brings you face-to-face with a late-Joseon-era fortress city, without venturing far from the capital.
If Seoul’s surviving stretches of old city wall leave you wanting more, Suwon offers a particularly rewarding chance to see how a fortress and a living city fit together.
We spotted plenty of runners making their way along the fortress walls, too.
Our familiarization tour began around Paldalmun Gate, continued through markets and neighborhood lanes, and included an evening fortress walk before a visit to Hwaseong Haenggung Palace the next day.
Rather than lingering in one place, we got to know Suwon by walking, eating, and listening to the stories behind its different neighborhoods.
Haenggung-dong Itinerary: Two Days and One Night
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Schedule |
Places visited |
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Day 1 |
Hwaseong Fortress walls · Paldalmun Market · Noeulbit Observatory at Suwon Jeil Church · Jidong Mural Village · Daebong Tongdak · Evening fortress walk |
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Overnight stay |
Stay105 Haenggung, near Haengnidan-gil |
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Day 2 |
Miral Wang Sundae, Jidong Market Main Branch · Hwaseong Haenggung Palace and the 24 Martial Arts performance · Haenggung Dagwa |
King Jeongjo’s Story at Paldalmun Gate and Market
Paldalmun, the southern gate of Hwaseong Fortress, stands amid roads and markets—a striking view of an old city gate surrounded by modern daily life.
Around Paldalmun Market, photo spots also connect a casual market visit with the area’s history and King Jeongjo.
Looking closely at the roof tiles, colorful dancheong paintwork, and stone foundations—and stopping to read the information boards—made the gate’s design and purpose much easier to understand.
At the market, we also encountered the story of King Jeongjo’s “bulchwimugwi.” Commonly translated as “You cannot go home until you’re drunk,” the phrase is associated with a banquet held at Hwaseong Haenggung Palace.
Knowing that Jeongjo hoped to develop Suwon into a commercial center made the bustling market streets feel like part of a much bigger story.
Near Paldalmun Gate, you can also see an unrestored section of the walls and Namchi, the southern bastion. This projecting structure allowed defenders to watch for and attack enemies approaching the walls.
Taking time to read the signs helped me see the fortress as a carefully designed defensive system, not simply an impressive old wall.
Suwon from Above: Noeulbit Observatory and Jidong Mural Village
From Noeulbit Observatory at Suwon Jeil Church, we looked out over the fortress walls and the lanes of Jidong.
I’ve often climbed old church towers for city views while traveling in Europe, so finding a similar vantage point in Suwon was a lovely surprise.
The observatory is free to visit, making it an easy addition to a Suwon itinerary. Around sunset, you can watch the colors shift across the walls and surrounding neighborhood.
Afterward, we walked through Jidong Mural Village. I loved that sequence: first seeing the neighborhood from above, then stepping into its narrow lanes.
If visiting only Hwaseong Haenggung Palace and Haengnidan-gil feels a little too brief, extend your walk to Paldalmun and Jidong.
Suwon Galbi-Style Fried Chicken and Fortress Views After Dark
For dinner, we headed to Daebong Tongdak in Haenggung-dong’s Food Culture Village to try Suwon wanggalbi tongdak—fried chicken flavored with the sweet-savory seasoning associated with Suwon’s famous king-size beef ribs.
After dinner, we continued along the fortress walls toward Hwahongmun Gate for a nighttime walk.
With the walls illuminated, the old fortifications and the lights of the modern city came together in a single view.
The atmosphere was completely different from daytime. If you’re spending a night in Suwon, I’d absolutely make room for an evening walk.
Hwaseong Fortress stretches for about 5.7 kilometers, or 3.5 miles, but there’s no need to tackle the entire circuit if that feels like too much.
You can walk toward Hwahongmun after dinner, as we did, or explore the sections around Paldalmun during the day. Pick a route that works for your itinerary.
Just remember that there are stairs and slopes, so wear comfortable shoes and bring water.
Staying Near Haengnidan-gil Before a Morning at the Palace
We stayed at Stay105 Haenggung, near Haengnidan-gil.
The accommodation was included in our hosted itinerary. Having a room nearby meant we could unwind after walking late into the evening and get an easy start the next morning.
Our tidy room was arranged for two guests.
The shared lounge 🙂
There were communal spaces and a terrace, too.
Halli Galli Deluxe Board Game
Korea Boardgames
naver.me
They even had games from Korea Boardgames, a company I love, so we squeezed in a casual game.
Haenggung-dong, where we stayed, is a great neighborhood for exploring on foot, with major sights, restaurants, and cafés clustered close together.
One lovely example is Haenggung Dagwa, the café I visited during this trip.
It’s run by Kim Su-yeong, a recognized master in traditional food and rice-cake artistry.
Link to Stay105 Haenggung Residence, Suwon
The next morning began with sundae gukbap—a hearty pork-broth soup with Korean blood sausage and rice—at Miral Wang Sundae, Jidong Market Main Branch.
This was seriously delicious. Easily one of the food highlights of the trip.
It’s going straight on my must-return list for Suwon!
Next, we headed to Hwaseong Haenggung Palace to watch the 24 Martial Arts demonstration outside Sinpungnu Gate.
The performance draws on the martial arts practiced by soldiers during King Jeongjo’s reign. Seeing it after exploring the fortress and palace made Suwon’s military role feel much more tangible.
There was a female martial artist, too, and watching her handle that long spear with such effortless control was incredible. Nothing but respect!
Then it was time to explore the palace.
An audience with King Jeongjo.
After touring the palace, we took a break at Haenggung Dagwa, the café I mentioned earlier, over omija ade—a sparkling drink made with magnolia berries—and hangwa, traditional Korean sweets. Finishing with traditional treats and a refreshing drink was a wonderfully calm way to wrap up two days on foot.
Who Would Enjoy This Haenggung-dong Local Experience?
This Suwon local stay is a great fit if you want more than cafés and restaurant stops: fortress history, lively markets, an evening walk along the walls, and a full day of exploring different places on foot.
If you’d like to experience both cultural heritage and everyday local life, consider staying overnight as I did so you can enjoy the evening scenery, too.
With this trip, I also checked off Hwaseong Fortress on the National Heritage Visit Course.
Close to Seoul, Suwon works as a quick side trip—but it’s also a city well worth giving a full, unhurried day of walking.
Next time, I’d like to explore other sections of the walls and follow the Suwon Independence Activists’ Trail to learn more about the city’s historical connections.
2026–2027 is Visit Suwon Year.
What would you put on your Suwon itinerary? I’d genuinely love to know.
If you’d like to experience this two-day, one-night local immersion in Suwon for yourself—a trip I enjoyed with all five senses—get in touch with guide Yu Ok-hyeon.
I participated in this Haenggung-dong local-stay familiarization tour at the invitation of Suwon IF (Suwon Insight Factory).
I also regularly share new travel updates on YouTube.
I’d love for you to follow along!
Written by
Jigubyeol Sigoljwi, book-loving travel and everyday-life blogger and YouTuber